Part 1 - Anatomy of a Buckram Frame

It is helpful to understand the pieces and parts of the hat frame prior to getting started. There are typically three pieces to the hat: Crown Tip, Side Band and Brim. The crown tip and side band are attached together, and after covering, are joined with the brim.

The millinery wire supports the buckram structure and insures that the shape is held in tact. Without the wire, the buckram can easily collapse or become misshapen if it becomes moist, is subjected to steam, or crushed. The wire provides the support to keep it safely in shape. In this method of constructing the hat frame, the wire is placed in three places: the outside of the brim, the lower part of the side band, and the outside of the crown tip piece.

All wired edges are eventually covered with bias tape or muslin to conceal any defects or protrusions, and to prevent the wire from poking through into the fashion fabric added later. If you are using fabric that is sheer or see-through (such that it might show the lines of the understructure), it may be necessary to interline the frame with flannel or muslin prior to covering the hat with fashion fabric.

Part 2 - Creating the Buckram Frame

The pattern is traced onto the buckram and cut out. If you are using a DND Kit, the pieces will come already traced.

Next, the millinery wire is sewn to the brim and tip pieces. This is accomplished using a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine or by hand sewing using a lock stitch. Take your time and use caution to keep the needle out of the way of the wire. Wear safety goggles. Starting at the center back of the brim and crown, lay the wire next to the buckram edge. Zigzag a few stitches forward and back to insure the wire is anchored. Then begin stitching forward keeping the wire as close to the buckram as possible.

Cover the wired edge of the brim using bias tape or muslin. Wrap the tape around the edge of the brim and stitch in place with a straight stitch. Stretch the tape around the edge as you go so that it lays flat.

Cut out the center of the inside brim edge (if you have not done so) leaving seam allowance. Cut the seam allowance into tabs spaced approximately 3/4" apart. These will eventually be folded upward and be used to attach the brim to the side band.

Stitch the ends of the center back side band together with a back stitch or double stitch using care to align the seam allowances.

Using a curved needle and doubled thread, attach the tip to the side-band top using a lock stitch. Match center front and center back.

Once the tip and side-band are sewn together, the wired edges must be covered. Using a brush, apply the glue to the junction of the tip and side band. Spread glue with brush on the inside and outside edges of the lower side-band edge and position the tape around the bottom edge so that it wraps over the wire.

Now your completed buckram frame is ready for covering!

Part 3 - Covering the Buckram Frame

Cut out the pattern cover pieces - crown tip, side band, and brim.

The crown tip cover is glued to the sides of the crown.

Cover the side band of the crown: Take the side band covering and wrap it around the crown sides, wrong side out. You will find that the fabric is bias cut and will stretch to form to the buckram structure. Pin the edges together where the seam should be. Remove the fabric piece from the crown and mark the seam. Right sides together, machine stitch on the seam line.

Slip the side band piece (right side out) over the crown and slide down into place matching center back. Turn upper raw edge of seam allowance under, evenly, all the way around the crown tip edge. Using the curved needle (or straight if you prefer), slip stitch the side band inner seam allowance to the crown tip fabric using care to bury the stitches in the fold line so that none show.

Cover the Brim - Take one piece of the brim cover and lay the fabric over the buckram frame. Stretch the fabric slightly and pin around the outside edge of the brim. Turn the frame over so that the buckram is facing upward. Machine stitch again over the top of the previous stay-stitching.

Turn the frame over and machine stitch the fashion fabric to the outer edge of the brim frame. Stitch evenly and maintain a consistent distance from the outer edge of the brim.

To attach the other side of the brim cover, repeat the process. Pin the fabric to the outer edge, flip the frame over and machine stitch the inside edge following the previous stitching, flip it back over and stitch the outside edge using the same care you did on the other side.

Cover the outer edge of the brim - For this step, use your bias cut strip or bias tape as you wish. Starting at the center back, stitch the bias strip onto the underside of the brim.

Once the bias has been attached to the outer edge all the way around, roll the bias strip over the wired edge to the other side. Fold the raw edge seam allowance under so that it is concealed creating a nice clean line. Hand stitch into place using the curved needle (or machine stitch if you prefer).

Cut out the center hole of the brim following the edge of the tabs in the frame. Cut tabs into the fashion fabric aligning the cuts with the tabs cut into the frame. Bend all of the tabs upward on the top side of the brim. The tabs will be used to connect the crown to the brim.

Attach the Crown to the Brim - Set the Crown onto the brim matching center back and center front. Fold the tabs upward into the crown edge.

Using a heavy-duty straight needle and millinery thread, hand stitch the crown to the brim tabs all the way around. Make certain to maintain alignment between the crown and brim. This step will require the use of a thimble and possibly pliers. Catch each tab with a stitch so that they all will stay in place.

Ready for decorating!